The Ultimate Skincare Guide for Women Over 50
Understanding Skin Care After 50
When you hit 50, you will experience a lot of life changes, and your skin is one of those. Change is completely normal at this stage of life, but knowing what is happening and how to work with it, can help maximize healthy, glowing skin for years to come.
Recognizing Your Changing Skin
During your approximately 50's, lots of biological changes happen, your skin starts losing collagen (the protein that helps the structure and elasticity of our skin), estrogen levels will change, which influences your skin's moisture retention, and skin cell renewal will slow down.
The glow and radiance of your skin in your 20's and 30's will take more than a gentle wash, as you are neither 'wrong' nor is your skin; you are simply at an advanced age, and your skin is advancing with you.
You are probably experiencing some difference in your skin, it may feel drier or more sensitive, or maybe you see that new line that isn't so new anymore. You might be seeing brown spots and blotches forming in a mangled part of your skin, or your once brilliant complexion looks dull and unappealing. All perfectly reasonable.
Our goal is to learn how to have fun with these biological constraints, and not to fight your skin. Think of this as a new dance with your skin; once you get the rhythm, learning the moves becomes easier! Creating Your Baseline Routine
Let's start with cleansers. When you hear the word 'cleanser' do you think of harsh cleansers that stripped your skins oils? Or left your skin feeling tight and uncomfortable? Not to concern yourself with that in your fifties.
The harsh cleansers can now become a problem. Your skins barrier is compromised, and it is now thinner and fragile. You need gentle, yet, effective creamy consistent nourishing daily cleansers that do not strip your oil while washing off make up and your daily grime.
The best cleansers contain nourishing ingredients like glycerin or ceramides. If you wear heavy makeup each day, or sunscreen regularly, I encourage you to consider an option of double cleansing - this would entail an oil based cleanser to dissolve your make up and sun screen first, before following it up with a gentle daily cleanser.
Layering Moisture
This is generally where most women will see the biggest difference after their fifties. Your skin does not hold onto moisture like it did. You will want to consider layering your moisture.
First, use a hydrating toner or a hydrating essence right after washing your face. Then a serum with a healthy dose of hyaluronic acid, because hydrating can hold an unbelievable 1,000x its weight in water. Then finish off with a nice moisturizer, and do not be shy to go on the rich end of things as well.
Do not forget your neck and chest. These are also areas of your body that can display signs of age but often get forgotten in our day-to-day routines. Don't Forget the Sunscreen
Let this be the only thing you take from this guide - sunscreen every day. UV damage is responsible for nearly 80% of what we look at as aging, and wearing sunscreen is only going to be more important as we age because our skin will become more susceptible to sun damage.
It is recommended to choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 - and wear it every day as part of your routine (like brushing your teeth). This one habit is going to do more for your skin's future than any procedure or expensive treatment you can spend your money on.
Targeted Ingredients that Work
Retinoids: Your Skin's Best Friend
If you are not using a retinoid - now is the time to start using one. All forms of Vitamin A, including retinoids, have been studied thoroughly, and all have been shown to increase collagen production and turnover rate. Start slow - maybe twice a week - and build as your skin gets used to it. If you notice some flaking, or redness, don't worry, this is completely normal and usually goes away within a few weeks. In the end, it is worth it.
Vitamin C for Brightness
A high-quality vitamin C serum you can use every morning will help to brighten your skin, and helps to keep an even tone and antioxidant protection the entire time you are awake. If this is your first experience with a vitamin C serum, and your skin has a negative reaction to it due to the amount of pure L-ascorbic acid in the product, you may want to try a stable form (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate).
Peptides for Firmness
Peptides are very small portions of proteins, and perform many essential functions, including signalling to skin to produce more collagen. The results may not be as impactful as retinoids, but many women feel that they create firmer and more elastic skin with improved suppleness.
Niacinamide for General Health
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is good for your skin barrier, helps to reduce inflammation, and can help to even out skin tone. In summary, niacinamide can be used with all other skincare ingredients, is non-irritating and is suitable for all skin types including sensitive and aging.
Specific Considerations for Aging Skin
Eyes
The skin on your eyelids are thinner and more delicate, and will show signs of aging much earlier than the rest of your skin. Use a separate eye product that has gentle, nourishing ingredients like ceramides, and peptides.
If you are perimenopausal/menopausal you may notice that your skin is more sensitive and/or reactive than it had been. This may in fact just be a temporary response, but if so, you may want to simplify your skin care regimen until you have come through that transitional period. Use products that focus on gentle soothing ingredients; and don’t use this stressful time for your skin to try new skin care products.
Out with your Bathroom Cabinet
Nutrition
You are what you eat! Focus on foods that are high in Omega-3 fatty acids (salmon, walnuts etc), high in antioxidants (berries, leafy greens), and high in Vitamin C (citrus fruit, bell peppers etc). Be hydrated, but topically apply moisture, a gallon of water daily is not going to save your skin from drying out!
Quality of Sleep
When you are not getting good quality deep sleep, your skin can't get the chance to repair itself from the days damage. And we can see it on our faces, dull skin, puffy cheeks, and more pronounced lines! Let's aim for quality sleep of 7-8 hours a night-a silk pillow case may help with the friction for your delicate skin of your face.
Stress & Stress Management
Chronic stress creates increased levels of the cortico steroid hormone, cortisol, which breaks down collagen, plus it exacerbates inflammatory skin conditions! Not everyone manages stress in the same way. Different things work for different people. Meditation, yoga, reading or taking a walk outside, all can be done as stress management and are very effective! When to Seek Help
Having checks for concerning changes to the skin on a regular basis, especially as we age, is more important than ever! A dermatologist will be able to look at your skin type and skin concerns and be specific in their recommendations.
Professional Procedures
You always have to start with the basics, and a good home care routine. After that is established, then you can start to think about professional procedures to enhance your results. Professional chemical peels, microneedling, and laser treatments, are often wonderful procedures for things such as sun damage and deeper lines. Make sure to always consult a professional, so that together you can come up with the right options for you and your skin type.
Prescription Options
If what you're trying over the counter is not working to get you the results that you're looking for, don't be afraid to ask about prescription options! A product designed to control oil or help with your acne may not be appropriate with your skin's aging process. If it makes you feel tight, stripped, or red; ,stop using it. No matter how much people rave about it, it's just not a good fit for your skin. Managing our expectations for immediate change is also important, ie: fading a red mark or getting rid of a pimple. Skincare is a marathon, not a sprint!
Change with the Seasons
What our skin needs will change with the seasons. For example, in winter it may call for richer moisturizers (or even a humidifier in your bedroom). Summer may call for lighter textures and a more vigorous sun protection routine. Pay attention to what your skin is asking for and adjust.
In Conclusion
Ultimately, caring for your skin in and after your 50's is not about turning back time. It is not about the fight against aging. It is about allowing your skin to be as healthy as possible for where it is at in its life stage. Spend your time and energy on gentle care with proven ingredients. Maintain what you have with your 365 days a year sunscreen for what you have put your skin through. Nourish it from the inside out with good nutrition, solid sleep schedules, and reducing stress.